Double Fun Does it Again - Trip North 2021

 It is hard to believe that it has been 6 years since our last major trip north. Despite nearing her 20th birthday (December 2021) DF is very much different this trip with 'new' sugar-scoop extensions, new cockpit and saloon cushions, new engines and a myriad other minor improvements. Hopefully the crew are still up to the task!

We hope to depart Lake Macquarie in the week starting Monday 17 May - a bit later than last time. It will be a quick trip north as we have family joining us aboard at Hamilton Island on 22 June. That should be interesting with an additional two adults and three children! We have very fond memories of our time sharing the boat with the kids last time so hope that the weather gods are kind to us.

Day 80 to 82 - Bowen to Cape's Upstart & Bowling Green

With a forecast of easing SE breezes we decided to continue our meander north. Our departure from the pile berth was no more impressive than our arrival but this time there was no-one to watch. We were soon motor sailing north as the promised 15-20kt breezes failed to materialise. How unusual!

Abbott Point coal loader

We had expected to see quite a few ships around Abbott Point coal loading terminal but everything was amazingly quiet. There were two ships lying at anchor but no other activity.

Beach & Houses on Cape Upstart

Shark Bay (Cape Upstart) looking south

The rest of the trip to Cape Upstart was quite uneventful and by early afternoon we were safely anchored in Shark Bay. It is a remote and rugged spot but the amazing thing is the number of houses along the shore line. They extend for miles into the bay and range from primitive tin shacks to two story brick mansions. The houses all  appear to have mains power and telephone but all access is by boat and water is from rainwater tanks. As this is all within the Cape Upstart National Park I am not sure how people are able to continue to buy and sell property but clearly they are. It is QLD after all!

Cottages ashore.

We went ashore for the obligatory exploration and decided to spend an extra day as it all looked rather interesting. Needless to say I tried a bit of fishing but managed to maintain my unblemished record for FNQ: Nil, zip, nada!

Cane field fires at dusk.

We were joined by several yachts and a few motor boats for the evenings but they all seem to be a bit more diligent than us as they were underway before we had even started breakfast.

The sunset was quite spectacular with several large fires on the mainland. We suspect that they were cane fields being burnt off - they do it at night.

Historic Makers - Cape Upstart

We finally decided to head to our next stop - Cape Bowling Green. Needless to say we ended up motor sailing initially as the wind took quite a while to build. Once it arrived we barber hauled the jib and enjoyed the peace and quiet. This was a good thing as one engine had started, idled a bit rough and then died for reasons that remain unclear. We even managed to overhaul a larger ketch which was nice.

Cape Bowling Green has little to recommend it as a tourist attraction - it is a low sand spit with a few trees and shrubs and a very muddy bottom that took ages to remove from our anchor chain. Our salt water deck wash system has been brilliant and I hate to think what the anchor well would look like without it. There was no incentive to stay any longer than necessary at this anchorage so plans were made for a relatively early departure next morning.

Day 73 to 79 - Bowen Harbour

We had heard good things about Bowen so decided to drop in for a day or two and have a quick look around. Well - that was the plan......a week later we were on the move again. We dropped in to Middle Island on the way across from Gloucester Passage as the diving/snorkelling is said to be good. Not so that day - the visability was terrible so we did not stop.

Bowen Harbour channel

Our introduction to Bowen Harbour was none too flash - the channel in is rather narrow and shallow (recommended max width of 6m - we are 5.9m and depth 1.4m). We then had the challenge of fitting into the string of pile berths with a bit of cross wind. I did not cover myself in glory on this one! Fortunately another yacht came to the rescue with his ducky to push us into place. No harm done - just a much dented ego.

DF between the piles.

The harbour has two fisherman's co-ops that are very much up and running with a regular shuffle of trawlers coming and going. After paying our mooring fees ($12.30 per day!) I bought a big feed of fresh local prawns figuring that would be a good way to make amends to Cath. It worked! I then consolidated by taking her out to dinner at the North Queensland Cruising Yacht Club (right opposite our berth). The meal and service were excellent and the view none to shabby either.

A warm welcoming sign!

Catalina Memorial

Catalina Pavilion on waterfront

Next day saw us walking to explore the town and shopping centre. I was surprised to find an outstanding commemorative pavilion for Catalina Flying Boats. It appears that Bowen was a major base during WWII and they take it pretty seriously. I hate to say this but Rathmines should come and have a look. They also have an excellent historical museum that is well worth a visit.  The other thing we discovered was that Bowen was the town used when they filmed 'Australia' - they basically made a massive film set to recreate Darwin.

Bowen transformed into Darwin

That night we had garlic prawns for entree and Red Emperor for main. Life is tough in the tropics!

We had planned to leave the next morning but the weather forecast was not promising and we had met the crew of 'Namche' (Gary & Linda) who are real aficionados of Bowen and suggested that there was much more to see. We took their advice and dragged out the bikes (for the first time this trip) and rode out to Horseshoe Bay. They were right - it is a truly beautiful spot with lovely clear water, clean beaches and outstanding views from the Rotary Lookout and the old WWII radar site. Needless to say the weather was sunny with very gentle breezes despite the protestations of the local BoM.

Some RAAF doctors do make good!

For reasons that are not clear to me, Round 3 of the Australian Superboat Championships were being held that weekend at Bowen. A Lake Mac identity (Darren Nicholson - brother of Chris) was driving one of the 600HP superheats (Club Marine) so we felt under some pressure to stay and barrack for him.

The Winner - Maritimo - 600HP Superboat

We had ringside seats for looking at the boats as they were stored at NQCYC and dropped into the water at their jetty. Needless to say we did watch the trials and the races which proved to be rather exciting when one boat flipped upside down during a race. I was monitoring the committee working channel which made for fascinating eavesdropping. I have to say that the race controller did an outstanding job. Unfortunately Darren was never really in the hunt - Maritimo had it all over him from the outset but it was still worth watching.

Bungee - Adams 45' centerboarder

While in the harbour we saw a boat that we had not seen since the late 1980's in Thailand - Steve and Pauline Theodore's 'Bungee'. We regularly sailed on Bungee around Penang and Butterworth and spent a few weeks cruising with them through Thailand when they were based at Phuket. We knew that they had sold it (for a McGregor 65 - Rum Doodle II!!) so wondered if the new owner knew the story behind the boat. We did not get to speak to him but when we mentioned it to Gary & Linda off 'Namche' they mentioned that they were good friends of the Theodore's and had visited them not that long ago! It is a bloody small world in the cruising scene!

The promised bad weather had arrived so we were in no real hurry to leave so it was a mixture of explore, maintenance and socialise until things looked a bit more promising for the trip north. The last day was a great walk around Muller's Lagoon and then drinks aboard 'Namche' where Gary and I found that we had had an amazing amount in common.

Day 68 to 72 - Woodwark, Double and Breakfast Bays + Gloucester Passage

The Airlie Beach/Cannonvale Rainbow

Having fuelled and watered both ourselves and the boat it was time to recommence our travels north. Needless to say we were greeted with an overcast sky with rain squalls in the region. Airlie Beach would not be the same without the rainbows when we leave!

Grimston Beach

The guide books spoke highly of the bays along the mainland so we decided to do a bit of bay hopping as we slowly worked our way north to Townsville. The first stop was Woodwark Bay. This is a lovely, protected anchorage with several rather nice beaches. There are several buildings at the end of the bay with very large 'Private Property - Keep Out' signs. We have heard several different stories as to who owns the property but it is listed on the internet as a 'Private Luxury Resort' than can take up to 14 guests. The rates are $15,000 - $19,000 PER NIGHT for the resort. It looked pretty basic to me for that sort of money and it made us feel very privileged to be able to share the scenery for free.

Green Tree Ant Nest - Very artistic!

Cath went for a snorkel whilst I did the less exciting task of cleaning some of the slime off the bottom of the boat.

The next day we moved up to the east arm of Double Bay. It is much like Woodwark but without the houses and signs. I was surprised at how many charter boats visit both Double and Woodwark Bays. The weather had finally improved so pottering around in the dinghy and exploring beaches was very much back on the agenda.

Small Leopard Shark - Trust me!

We had a quiet day and after a bit of exploring ashore we retired to the boat for sundowners and dinner. That evening the boat was surrounded by thousands of garfish. If I had a long handled net I am sure that I could have caught hundreds but we left them in peace. We also saw one large squid.

Yet another lovely sunrise.

DF on her own.

The next day we moved further north to an unnamed bay. We had it all to ourselves which was nice. As I needed to make some phone calls we decided to go ashore and climb onto a headland. We were amazed to find that it was very nicely landscaped and had in-ground irrigation yet we could see no house. Soon after making the calls and elderly gent in a Toyota Landcruiser drove up to challenge us. Suffice to say we ended up having a great chat for nearly an hour hearing both his life story and that of the region. He was a true 'bushy' and had led a pretty amazing life although he was not looking too flash at present.

Earlando Resort - Not yachtie friendly

The next destination was Gloucester Passage and the famed 'Monte's Resort' next to what has now become an iconic cruising destination - Passage (aka 'Shag') Islet. This is the 'home' of the Shag Islet Cruising Yacht Club of which we are proud Vice Commodores. On the way we passed the Earlando Resort which looked very empty and run-down. Not too many resorts are surviving around this part of the  world at present!

The famous Shag Islet - Gloucester Passage.

On transiting the Passage we went ashore at Breakfast Beach for a nice long walk and then anchored off Monte's. It is a small, very casual affair with a few cabins and a bar/restaurant. It certainly seemed friendly enough and we had a beer at the bar watching the world go by. It seems that this is a popular watering hole for people with large, fast motor cruisers as there were plenty there. I guess it is close enough to Bowen and Airlie to make it a reasonable day trip.

Day 56 to 62 - Tim and Kate visit

It was a very slow and wet trip from Sawmill to Hamo Marina - wind and current were against us and at times we were lucky to make over 1.5 knots SOG. Fortunately we were not in a hurry.
Tim and Kate arrived on time and the waterline got even lower after loading their kite boards, kites and snorkelling gear.
Fortunately the weather had cleared a bit so we headed off to One Tree Hill for a few cocktails and then back to the village for a pub meal. We had hoped to dine at the Yacht Club but were amazed to find that the restaurant only opens a few nights a week and the bars close early (well - it was a Sunday, but....).

Would love to know the story behind this.

Whitehaven - not a soul in sight!!

Next morning the weather did not look all that inviting but we headed off to Whitehaven via Solway Passage. We had 25kts (gusting to over 30) on the nose and seas to 3 metres. It was a very slow, miserable trip and Kate looked as though she was seriously doubting her decision to spend a week on the boat. I have to say that it was pretty awful and one of the worst that Cath and I have experienced so far on DF. I was also worried that Solway was going to be a washing machine but was amazed to find that it was relatively calm all the way through. Once we were at Whitehaven and in the lee of the island it was a miraculous change with big smiles all around. What was even more amazing was that we had the whole beach to ourselves (if you ignore the solo gent in the small boat anchored deep in one corner). Needless to say the solitude did not last for long - we were soon joined by two other yachts then the large tourist charter boat disgorged its masses. Well - it was nice whilst it lasted!

Tim was keen to do a kite run from the southern end of Whitehaven up to Hill Inlet so the rest of us followed in DF. We had flat seas and a stiff southerly breeze so were able to drift along without sails or motors and still do 3-4 knots. Tim had a magic run and then moved into Hill Inlet and looked like we was going to stay forever. We anchored the boat in Tongue Bay and then went ashore to help him bring his gear back. It was hard it get the smile off his face - especially as we did all the carrying!

Tim launching at the southern end of Whitehaven

Tim working his way along Whitehaven Beach

Next day dawned sunny and warm so Tim & Kate headed off to do some more kiting on Hill Inlet. Conditions were great and they had a ball whilst Cath and I went for a wander to check out the local wild life (natural - not imported. Most of the tourists at Hill Inlet seem to be overseas backpackers).

Tim & Kate kiteboarding at Hill Inlet

We then moved to Luncheon Bay so that Tim and Kate could do a bit of snorkelling and finished the day at Maureen's Cove where we had a pretty rolling night.

Not sure what this is - perhaps a shark egg?

Next day saw us heading for Blue Pearl Bay for some serious snorkelling. The viz was pretty good and the friendly Batfish were there to greet us. While it would have been a tad cool without wetsuits, it was a few hours very well spent with some great coral and tons of fish of every imaginable species.

Next stop was Langford island in the hope that they could do some more kiteboarding but the tide was out and the wind had died away to almost nothing. We went ashore for a bit of beach combing and then headed over to Stonehaven for the night. We even managed to get a mooring buoy which is always a bit of a mixed blessing. Nice to have the convenience but hard to stop them banging against the hull when you get adverse wind on tide.

Tim doing what he does best supported by Kate

The next morning saw us heading back to Langford where we were able to meet up with Wolfie and Petra off Raki. It was great to catch up and hear their stories of their trip up from Lake Mac. They really are sailing purists and I envy their willingness to chill out and wait for the ideal sailing conditions so that they rarely use the motor. Oh, did I mention the fish? Wolfie continues to catch fish every day and makes it all seem to easy and natural. Not sure what it is about DF but we repel fish like nothing I haver ever seen. Tim has been really keen to catch something (anything!) so we have had lines in the water every leg where it is legal to do so. So far we haven't even had a decent nibble let alone a catch.

Intrepid climbers at the summit

Local butterflies on flowering Grass Trees

Leaving Langford we headed across to Nara Inlet so that Tim and Kate could visit the Ngaro site. We finished the day at Refuge with one other boat whilst watching a steady stream of boats moving deeper into Nara. It must have a been a real parking lot down the end by nightfall! Still no fish so we had a roast leg of lamb for dinner. We love our Cobb Cooker!

Looking south from Whitsunday Peak

Despite Hamo having 30-35 kts overnight, the following day dawned sunny and warm with almost no clouds in the sky so it was an ideal opportunity to climb the Whitsunday Peak. The walk starts at Sawmill Beach and offers virtually 360 degree views of the Whitsunday Group. It is a relatively easy climb on an excellent track and the round trip took us just over two hours. It was the perfect day for the trip with clear skies and no haze. My panoramic photos even came out OK which is a pleasant change!

Looking north from Whitsunday Peak

After what had been an outstanding week it was time to deliver Tim and Kate back to Hamo so that they could fly home to Sydney, repack and leave the following day for a week on Lord Howe Island. Life is tough when you are young and free!  We dropped them off at the Hamo fuel jetty and headed off towards Airlie and the obligatory reprovisioning. It was a moderately rough trip across the Whitsunday Passage and we decided to check out Funnel Bay for the afternoon and evening. It is a quiet, sheltered spot that we had pretty much to ourselves save for the catamaran sitting on the dry and a family car camping ashore.

Day 63 to 67 - Abell Point & Melbourne

Returning to Abell Point Marina is always a pleasure - the staff are great and nothing is ever too much trouble. We borrowed the courtesy car and did the obligatory shopping. We now have it down to a fine art and can get food (Cath), fuel, alcohol and boat bits (Tony) all within the hour and a half that we have the car.

This time we were berthed at the North end amongst the other visiting cruisers. While I was initially lamenting the solitude we had down the other end we soon got into the social swing of things even meeting two couples from LMYC sharing a boat slowly wandering northwards.

Sunday evening saw us dragging on our SICYC polos and joining the other Shaggers for drinks at Sorrentos. It was quite an eclectic group of sailors and we even ran into a retired school; teacher who had spent quite a few years working at the RAAF School on Penang. He and his wife love the place and go back almost every year to catch up with friends and top up on the food.

I had been invited down to Melbourne to do a hand-over with the new Chair for the VVCS National Advisory Committee (NAC) which became an interesting travel experience as the only flights that I could get that got me to Melbourne early enough for a pre-meeting get together left from Hamilton Island International Airport(!). This involved me taking a taxi to Port of Airlie, the ferry to Hamo and then flights to Melbourne via Sydney. I think I was just a tad over dressed for the ferry trip!

The meeting went really well and I had very mixed feelings meeting with my colleagues for the last time. It has been an outstanding six years with the NAC but it was time for a fresh set of eyes and a new set of priorities. I feel very comfortable that the new Chair will do a great job.

The trip back to the boat was uneventful and it was nice to get back to some warm weather as Melbourne had been cold, if not frigid!

While I was away Cath met the owners of another SW1000. Michael and Kelly had their boat in charter in Darwin for several years and I had even gone out for an evening cruise with Michael several years ago after he offered to led me a T-shirt and shorts so I could get out of my suit. It is a long story.... They are very much in cruise mode and I am sure that our paths will continue to cross.

As Cath's birthday was imminent and Hog's Breath Cafe were offering her a free meal (they are major sponsors of the SICYC) we elected to eat out for our last night at Airlie before heading north. The food was great but they just cannot get the billing right which was a bit of a downer.

Day 50 to 55 - Whitsunday & Hook Islands

Rainbow over Abell Point Marina

Having re-provisioned at Airlie it was time for Cath and I to set off on our own for a week before Tim and Kate joined us for a week. Needless to say the weather was pretty average with strong winds and intermittent rain squalls forecast for most of the week. As we were keen to do the walks on South Molle Island  we decided to head for Bauer Bay. Unfortunately this proved to be a bit too rolly for Cath and her delicate constitution so we changed plans and headed for good old Cid harbour and Sawmill Beach.

Interesting fungus on Dugong Beach Track

Resident curlew at Sawmill Beach

HMNZS Canterbury protecting DF

We were really hoping to do the walk to the top of Whitsunday Peak but the low clouds and rain squalls made that a rather unattractive option. We did venture ashore a few times to further explore Dugong Beach and even took the dinghy into the upper reaches of Dugong Bay. The only real excitement was the arrival of HMNZS Canterbury which seemed to be exercising off CID Island for several days. It looks like the Kiwis are no more successful than us Aussies when it comes to defence procurement - Canterbury has not been a raging success for them!


Not having been to Nara Inlet we decided that we had to tick that box and visit the Ngaro Cultural site. This has been done really well and is very much worth a visit.

Ngaro Cultural Site - Nara Inlet

Ngaro rock art

Interpretive Sign - Nara Inlet

The weather was easing up a bit and we even had some sunshine. Just what I needed as I had to spend several hours each day on teleconferences for unexpected work matters. Rather than stay with the masses we moved into Refuge Cove up near the entrance to Nara and were rewarded with a very calm and beautiful anchorage which we had to ourselves until a large motor launch joined us in the evening. I had been warned by several people before leaving Sydney that Nara Inlet is infamous for its most tenacious mud. For this reason I had finally fitted a salt water deck wash down system using my old freshwater pump. I am most glad that I did make the effort as the mud in several of the anchorages we have used is amazingly glutinous and I would hate to be collecting kilos of it in the anchor chain locker. It needs a high pressure nozzle to move it off the chain and anchor but so far all has worked well.

Interesting rock formation - Nara Inlet

We then spent a very pleasant few days in Macona Inlet. For some reason this is not visited by most boats which suited us just fine. The beaches are great and the solitude was a very pleasant change from the usual tourist anchorages. We then returned to Sawmill to find 31 boats at anchor. Could it have anything to do with the NSW and QLD school holidays????

Room with a view - Curlew Beach, Macona Inlet.